Monday 11 April 2016

The best of Parmigiano Reggiano, Balsamic Vinegar & Proscuitto

We travel only 20 minutes just down the hill from our village of Castelvetro to the property known as Hombre, one of the most significant Parmigaino producers in all of Italy. We are taken on a guided tour of the dairy, These comments from Wikipedia sum it up perfectly;
It is named after the producing areas, which comprise the Provinces of Parma, Reggio Emilia, Bologna (only the area to the west of the river Reno), Modena (all in Emilia-Romagna), and Mantova (in Lombardia, but only the area to the south of river Po), Italy. Under Italian law, only cheese produced in these provinces may be labelled "Parmigiano-Reggiano", and European law classifies the name, as well as the translation "Parmesan", as a protected designation of origin. Parmigiano is the Italian adjective for Parma and Reggiano that for Reggio Emilia. Parmigiano-Reggiano is made from raw cow's milk.




 The whole milk of the morning milking is mixed with the naturally skimmed milk (which is made by holding milk in large shallow tanks to allow the cream to separate) of the previous evening's milking, resulting in a part skim mixture. This mixture is pumped into copper-lined vats (copper heats and cools quickly). Starter whey (containing a mixture of certain thermophilic lactic acid bacteria) is added, and the temperature is raised to 33-35 °C (91-95 °F). Calf rennet is added, and the mixture is left to curdle for 10–12 minutes. 


The curd is then broken up mechanically into small pieces (around the size of rice grains). The temperature is then raised to 55 °C (131 °F) with careful control by the cheese-maker. The curd is left to settle for 45–60 minutes. The compacted curd is collected in a piece of muslin before being divided in two and placed in molds. There is 1100 L (291 US gallons or 250 imperial gallons) of milk per vat, producing two cheeses each. The curd making up each wheel at this point weighs around 45 kg (100 lb). The remaining whey in the vat was traditionally used to feed the pigs from which "Prosciutto di Parma" (cured Parma ham) was produced. The barns for these animals were usually just a few yards away from the cheese production.
The cheese is put into a stainless steel, round form that is pulled tight with a spring-powered buckle so the cheese retains its wheel shape. After a day or two, the buckle is released and a plastic belt imprinted numerous times with the Parmigiano-Reggiano name, the plant's number, and month and year of production is put around the cheese and the metal form is buckled tight again. The imprints take hold on the rind of the cheese in about a day and the wheel is then put into a brine bath to absorb salt for 20–25 days. After brining, the wheels are then transferred to the aging rooms in the plant for 12 months. Each cheese is placed on wooden shelves that can be 24 cheeses high by 90 cheeses long or about 4,000 total wheels per aisle. Each cheese and the shelf underneath it is then cleaned manually or robotically every seven days. 



At 12 months, the Consorzio Parmigiano-Reggiano inspects every cheese. The cheese is tested by a master grader whose only instruments are a hammer and his ear. By tapping the wheel at various points, he can identify undesirable cracks and voids within the wheel. Those cheeses that pass the test are then heat branded on the rind with the Consorzio's logo.
Those that do not pass the test used to have their rinds marked with lines or crosses all the way around to inform consumers that they are not getting top-quality Parmigiano-Reggiano; more recent practices simply have these lesser rinds stripped of all markings.

Its worthwhile going to Wikipedia to read the story of this chap , Umberto Panini. The Umberto Panini Classic Car Collection is one of the most fascinating exhibitions dedicated to Maserati. Cars that have made Maserati history and that have been lovingly gathered over the years are housed in a typical building in Cittanova, Modena.


Originally the brainchild of the Maserati brothers and expanded by Omar Orsi, the collection has remained more or less intact to the present day. It is now run by West (a company owned by the Panini family) and includes 23 cars on display and three that are currently undergoing restoration.
Next a visit to Consorzio del Prosciutto to see the process of the amazing Prosciutto from this area.




After experiencing the end product of this amazing cheese & proscuitto, and wandering through the car museum we depart via the tree lined driveway, and travel only 10 minutes to find our next adventure.

 This time with the Pedroni family and their prized Balsamic Vinegar of Modena DOP.
Balsamics tasted for entree main and dessert. Incredible.
Their other specialty, Grappa, was also on the agenda







We are shown the process with the grapes coming in whilst we were there, the heating and skin extraction, through to the barrel maturation.
Then we dine with the Pedroni's enjoying a selection of local anti Pasta's, their own wines and a selection from the region followed by local Grappa.

For  more information on how you can experience this personalised type of tour in Italy go to www.wineandfoodtraveller.com  Most of the product highlighted in this series is available from Benfatta Fine Foods in Australia. 

Tuesday 5 April 2016

Italian in Germany


Frankfurt for those wanting Italian.

The unofficial count for Italian restaurants in Frankfurt is round 180 so its a pretty good place to be for the Italian lifestyle
I have tried 5 of the best and they have all been authentic from service to quality of cuisine to wines.
Out of convenience i went to a recently opened trattoria 2 doors from my hotel in Kolner Strasse, called da Vinc cucina & vino. Absolutely superb, possibly the best buffalo mozzarella with tomato and deep red prosciutto and a gnocchi with ricotta cheese .
Volare is bigger but retained the Italian flair, good wine list service indifferent but quality of food, wow. Slightly more expensive on the food.
The stand out for me has been Cron am hafen down on the river on Speicher Strasse. Truly Italian great service, cheeky, and very popular. Incredible wine list, cuisine from all regions of Italy. Dinner for 2 including a bottle of Montepulciano was around 100e.but well worth every euro.
Quattro was a lunch visit , good location in the old part of the city, ģood for people watching, good wine list but more germanic in attitude.
having said that i set a fairly high benchmark.
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There was very good Italian exposure at the Klein Markt Halle with Italian importers like Casa Italiana, with Francesco Belvedere importing the most amazing array of Italian goods with a specialty on Sicily.
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Cafe Valentino, serving up bolognese, ravioli with ricotta and spinach, and a fine selection of Italian wines. 
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I will do a separate story on this market but suffice to say i could have easily spent the whole day here, its a must when visiting Frankfurt. As good as any of the leading markets i have been to anywhere.
There is an International Womens club with a big focus on Italian cuisine http://www.iwc-frankfurt.de/index.php/de/aktivitaeten/52-interest-groups-deutsch/455-italian-cuisine

Touring culinary Delights of Puglia.

An opportunity to visit this magical region only took 30 seconds to say Yes, lets do it. As i am preparing to run tours , food & wine tours to be precise, i made contact with some specialists in the Puglia region to make sure our time was well spent.
We were in London and the only opportunity to fly at short notice was with Ryan Air . If ever there is was an airline that understands Customer service, it is definitely NOT Ryanair. This journey could have destroyed our 5 days in Paradise, it didn't, my only lesson learnt,  spend a little more and avoid Ryanair , plan ahead and find another airline. Anyway enough of that.
Early morning Martina Franca


Home street walking only 

We flew into Bari , collected a car with a dodgy GPS, and drove the 100 k's down the coast to Martina Franca a gorgeous hilltop town in the Itria Valley. As with all trips we have done in Italy,  you cannot rely on GPS to tell you " you have reached your destination" most of these towns are made up of roads  made at best for the little fiats and the 3 wheeled Ape Piaggio's. Luckily (at 11pm ) some staff from a little cucina just closing up let us through a labyrinth of lane-ways to our old town accommodation.

  Our car remained on the perimeter of the old part of Martina Franca.
Tuesday morning awakening to this beautiful town and the sounds of activity we are back to try to find the car , a delicious breakfast then on the road in daylight this time heading back to Bari to meet our host for the next couple of days. GPS totally confused and heading us South rather than North,     ( maybe a preferred route?) is relegated to the bench and replaced by Google Maps,  and a little help from the community police who escorted us into Bari and the waterfront, perfect .
We start our day of food and wine with a visit to Decarlo Olive Oil  in Bitritto, Puglia  The De Carlo family is olive oil; their passion and hard work are inspiring.


Original mill 

Olive Oil from DeCarlo

They own 120 Ha in one of Puglia’s greatest and most historic zones, Terre di Bari. They live in the ancient village of Bitritto that is home to thousands of ancient olive trees planted primarily to Coratina and Ogliarola Barese. The family has produced olive oil since the 1600s but in the 1970s Saverio De Carlo blazed a path to quality that no one else was willing to take. The result of his work is evident in the family’s success as the estate has grown into, hands down, one of the world’s greatest producers of olive oil
 Then we head into Bitonto  a city and commune in the province of Bari, Italy. It is nicknamed the "City of Olives", due to the numerous olive groves surrounding the city. Interesting to note that a lot of locally produced olive oil was shipped to Tuscany and sold as Tuscan oil. A local story but maybe a true one!!
Bocconotto
 We are here to taste Bocconotto A bocconotto is a pastry typical of the Italian regions of Apulia, Abruzzo, and Calabria. It is often eaten at Christmas. Its filling varies according to the region in which it is produced. The traditional one we tried was a combo of ricotta & lemon.
in another street we taste the local focaccia  , very local and the oldest producer in the town.

slow food Italy

Slow food with Slow wine



Its only lunchtime, but a very important time of day where ever you are in Italy. And finding hidden gems unless you are in the know and travelling with a local will be difficult. Today we are to be introduced to one of the finest Slow Food osteria's in Puglia. Perbacco is dedicated to the  slow food movement and has the accolades and awards to show for it. Maybe 22 seats, incredibly well priced and oh so good. Its no wonder they all take extended time out for this ritual. Lunch was a tasting selection of Octopus, Flan of scrimp & riccotto , grano arso, a local burnt wheat pasta with bacon & tomato.

After a wonderful lunch and discussions about the slow food movement in Italy we headed South to Polignano to discover this beautiful coastal town about  30 minutes from Bari. this gem of an Italian beach town is situated on the edge of a craggy ravine, high above the electric-blue ocean. Home to humans since prehistoric times, Polignano oozes charm to this day. Its collection of stone streets, pleasant piazzas and mysterious sea caves practically begs you to come and explore.
Polignano's dark, shadowy grottoes were home to people in the Neolithic era. The town later fell to Norman conquerors, and various families feuded over the village until the 19th century.




We have time here to explore some of the tiny streets, missing of tourists at this time of day and just locals  chatting in their little groups as they have done for hundreds of years.And as have many before us we visit the famous Gelateria for some scoops of a delicacy a coffee gelato from heaven, definitely worth the visit. I think the gelato was Hazelnut & Pistachio and a liqueur coffee , extremely refreshing!!



Now, Red Bull uses Polignano's soaring cliffs for its Cliff Diving World Series, and visitors from around the world come for shops, a beach club and a gelateria so authentically local. The beach is part of the illustrious Costa dei Trulli, a collection of coastlines that meet high standards for water quality and environmental excellence.



Back in Martina Franca for passagienta , a walk round the old hill top town centre, looking for one of the local specialties, butcher shops that change at night time to BBQ intensely flavored local beef, unfortunately we were too late, a pity as this is a very local experience and you need to know who is doing it on what nights. Not a vegetarians choice, but next time we will do it.
After an amazing day we walked the winding cobbled streets back to our little white house , a little lemoncello along the way ,helping sleep come quickly.
Day 2, and its market day in Martina Franca  but first we walk the perimeter of the old city. The markets are huge , but dominated by clothing and other assorted "fashion" items, so if you are looking for the Farmers markets head right through to the far side from the central Piazza.
there is the area the size of a football field with  a really good selection of local produce, or certainly Puglia grown and produced.
We picked up some delicious local cheeses , Marzicota, Galbari Gorgonzola, and Burrata of course.



Farmers Markets Martina Franca

mushrooms Italy

Italian Tomatoes Incredible Flavour


Mushrooms of all shapes and flavours



Here is a list of when and where every market takes place in Puglia.
Every day
Altamura, piazza Matteotti. Mainly fruits and vegetables
Taviano, fruits, vegetables and flowers
Mondays
Andria, Vieste,Lecce ,Laterza
Tuesdays
Monopoli, piazza Vittorio Emanuele
Sant'Agata di Puglia, corso Vittorio Emanuele II
Morciano di Leuca, piazza San Giovanni,Massafra
Wednesdays
Palo de Colle, corso Garibaldi,Manfredonia, via Scaloria,Gallipoli, viale Bari,Martina Franca, campo Boario and piazza d'Angio
Italian Cheddar Cheese


Thursdays
Alberobello,Brindisi,Mattinata,Porto Cesareo,Grotteglie, via Marconi
Fridays
Locorotondo, via Roma and corso Garibaldi,Torchiarolo,San Giovanni Rotondo, corso Nazionale,Taurisano,Faggiano, via Scandebeg
Saturdays
Castellana Grotte,Ceglie Messapico ,Apricena,Matino,Monteparano
Sundays
Casalvecchio di Puglia

Other than food there are streets of clothing stalls, and how the local shops compete is beyond me, although the market stalls are very local in the fashion stakes.
We checked the markets on Thursday at Alberobello, and they were smaller overall , but still worth a visit.


After a lunch time spread of the goodies from the market , washed down with a glass of Bambina Bianca, we head out on a truly excellent adventure.



We drive through the beautiful countryside past bleached hilltop towns like Locorotondo perched high on a dominant hill, enroute for Alberobello possibly the best town to view the Trulli culture





A trullo  is a traditional Apulian dry stone hut with a conical roof. Their style of construction is specific to the Itria Valley, in the Murge area of the Italian region of Apulia.
Alberobello  Truli touwn

Trulli were generally constructed as temporary field shelters and storehouses or as permanent dwellings by small proprietors or agricultural labourers. In the town of Alberobello, in the province of Bari, whole districts are packed with trulli. The golden age of trulli was the 19th century, especially its final decades marked by the development of wine growing.



Then we move on to Noci , yet another town with a beautiful walled town centre, more exploring, then on to meet another local food expert in Gioia del Colli, for another lesson in local history, dairy products and where to find the best local cuisine. Angelo Colluccia has supplied all the following information.
If Puglia is one of Italy’s best kept secrets, then Gioia del Colle qualifies as one of it’s hidden jewels – literally!


Gioia del Colle is a little town in the heart of Puglia, strategically located half way between the Ionian and Adriatic seas to the east and west, and between the cities of Bari and Taranto to the north and south. Its name comes from the legend of a Queen who, having found a cache of buried jewels, had them made into a necklace, thus giving Gioia it’s name of ‘Jewels of the Neck’.
Typical foods from the area include mozzarella cheese, for which Gioia is justly famous in producing some of the best tasting varieties you will find, red and white wines, extra virgin olive oil, orechiette (small pasta shapes resembling little ears) and, believe it or not, pan-fried olives which have a taste not unlike aubergines!

Gioia is also the birthplace of the increasingly popular Primitivo wine. Local history records a 17th century Benedictine monk finding the first vines in the gardens of his monastery (now Gioia’s Police headquarters) and later planting them in the surrounding fields. Primitivo is increasingly popular in the UK, and is already a favourite in the United States, via its genetic twin Zinfandel, which is grown in California.

Today, a host of small family owned businesses harvest, bottle and sell their own excellent private Primitivo labels, many producing no more than 15,000 bottles a year.

Gioia also shares in the Puglian tradition of producing what is acknowledged to be some of the best olive oil in Italy, its quality attributed to the unique iron-rich soil of the land, the particular climate which sees dry summers and wet winters, and the long tradition of producing a product that unites advanced technology and equipment to centuries-old traditional methods of workmanship.
Its late in the day, but we find time to accompany our host  to one of the local cheese specialty shops and come away with the most amazing selection of Burrata's , mozarellas, cheese rolled with prosciutto, and an incredible ricotta.
Mr. Michele Spinelli and his wife Carmela Picerna after years of working as farmers in a company with a short chain, have given rise to this dairy that takes name Masseria Corvello, from the district where it is located its own farm, where there are herds of cattle from which the milk is obtained for the production of fresh dairy products. The dairy is very modern colors and furnishings, beige walls and brown floors and a large counter that exposes delights only high quality, provolone sweet, spicy provolone, mozzarella, mozzarella stuffed with prosciutto, mozzarella rolls, hard cheese scamorza,  and other delights.  Definitely coming back . Some of the best cheeses I have tasted.



Another wonderful day exploring Puglia.  We will be back in this region of Puglia tomorrow.

Wi Fi is not easy in the heavily walled houses so we started Wednesday trying to pick up on wi fi connections outside one of the trattoria's we had visited earlier in the trip.  A breakfast in the Piazza and we are off again. That's where we are heading first, to the Olanda family
We head to Andria, another town producing an amazing array of products, Olive Oil, and cheeses, the famous Burrata being a specialty.








this taken from the history website for Olanda;
In the hills of the Apulian Murgia adjoining the manor Federiciano of Castel del Monte, in the municipality of Andria where Michael Holland and his wife Carmela breeders and milk producers, give birth in 1988 to the Netherlands dairy artisan family, devoting their entire family experience farmers and cheese makers in the processing of milk and dairy products, carefully selecting the raw materials, ensuring product quality.
Since then the family Netherlands devotes with passion and commitment to the craft of milk, respecting the traditions and carefully selecting the right ingredients.
Today the current workshop provides maximum safety and hygiene of food according to the strictest laws.
Jealous guardians of a technical day work wise and environmentally, the Netherlands Dairy white delights prepared every day, every day ensuring freshness and authenticity to their customers.

We are in time to watch the daily production of the wonderful Buratta, all done by hand, and take note of the temperature of the water these guys are working in, one chap has been doing this daily for the past 43 years. ( check his hands out in the pic)



Most of their product is used locally, but in recent times the export trade has grown remarkably.

the winery al la Ceci
We are heading out of Andria to try some of the best Organic wine in the region.GIANCARLO CECI, run for the last eight generations with the greatest respect for nature and traditions... The vineyards are situated just above the famous Italy boot on the Adriatic Sea, an area that is perfectly suited for the production of fine wines. For eight generations and 200 years, the Ceci family has cultivated the land with the greatest respect for nature and traditions.

Red wine maturing at Giancarlo Ceci

 winemaking museum at Ceci





Wine cellaring Ceci Puglia
The Mediterranean climate, the location amidst a landscape of low hills, the presence of oak woods, the non-intensive cultures contribute to preserve the biodiversity and the precious balance of this ecosystem. The farm experienced a significant upturn in 1988 when Giancarlo Ceci upon his return from agricultural school, converted the acreage to organic. He developed the AGRINATURA brand, focusing his efforts on innovation, quality and operation of a full-scale fresh produce growing, packing and shipping facility, along with organic olive oil, which is grown, pressed and packed on site.


Giancarlo Ceci with AGRINATURA was a pioneer in growing and marketing organic products and was one of the first certified organic producers in Italy. In 2000, new grape vines were planted over an area of 70 hectares and the first organic wine production took place in 2004. The vineyard received USDA organic certification in 2006.


 As well as wines there is a a superb range of Organic Olive Oils, so the property is active all year round. Ceci is worth visiting with Wineandfoodtraveller.com  where we have access to Giancarlo for private tastings, both oil and wine.

The tasting cellars at Ceci




The winery is equipped with vast cellars for the aging of the wine underneath the 400+ year-old family mansion. With an eye toward innovation,Giancarlo is working on a proprietary method of producing top quality wines without any sulfites added which will allow future sales of 100% organic wines . The resulting award-winning wines are sold throughout Europe, and selected local varieties are available in the United States, under the Castel del Monte DOC/DOCG label. All Ceci’s wines are organic, moreover the Bombino Bianco Panascio, the Parchitello Bombino Nero Rosato and Almagia Rosso are organic and biovegan, that means that no animal finings are used.


Time for a special lunch, a very special lunch, just down the road from the Ceci family wines at Montegrosso is Antichi Sapori.

What was picked today gets prepared today


The kitchen crew at Antici Sapori


ancient Olive tree Antici Sapori 

outdoor kitchen for special functions , surrounded by the vegetable garden

Chef Pietro the main man at Antici Sapori 
one of the most amazing meals i have ever experienced. This is what the Italian Lifestyle  is all about.!

Here is what I wrote on Trip Advisor after our visit , the dishes just kept coming, the flavours incredible, in the middle of  nowhere, you have to be in the know, otherwise you would never find it, nor would you think to find a place like this where it is.
Part of the vegetable garden at Antici.
“Possibly the best meal I have eaten in Italy”
5 of 5 stars Reviewed October 16, 2015
            Absolutely outstanding
A 30 seat osteria practising the best in slow cooking
A blackboard shows what was picked from his massive garden that morning and a team of 8 & directed by Chef Peitro they prepare the best of regional/ local dishes with pride and passion
Andria is a tiny community 30 kl inland from Bari and not far from Trani
Definitely seek this out but book in advance its full every day.
Better still let us share the experience with our Culinary tour of Puglia. Available at www.wineandfoodtraveller.com